Head of the Art Department in the Bavarian State Ministry for Science, Research and the Arts:
This is not really a place anybody would call a big secret, even if it is hidden in a little alleyway. For those courageous enough to confront the essentials of traditional Bavarian fare it is a famed destination. Enjoy all kind of organs, such as intestines, lungs or heart, plus goodies like pigs feet or head and the like. They also serve safer dishes for cowards like me.
Im Tal 21, Phone: (089) 22 21 95
I simply adore this place. Unfortunately, so does the rest of the world. Whether you fancy fish soup in the morning or half a dozen oysters at 4 in the afternoon, the place will be crammed, so make a reservation. Once you squeeze your way in, however, you’ll enjoy wonderful food, service, and friendly fellow diners. It’s a real gem.
Viktualienmarkt 9, Phone: (089) 22 26 40
Now here is a genuine address book secret for a change! Munich is said to be the northernmost city in Italy. It therefore may come as a surprise that some of the town’s best Italian restaurants are situated away from the city center. This classic may only be known to BMW CEOs, who pass it on their daily commute to the nearby headquarters, but it’s worthy of wider renown. The interior is rustic yet stylish; the service is charming; and, they do Italian fare with a distinct Tuscany flavour, with some really good bottles of vino as complement.
Frohschammerstrasse 14, Phone: (089) 359 83 20
TRATTORIA KURFÜRST MAXIMILIAN
This is another Italian place off of the beaten path. For the past 20 years, however, I’ve beat a path to its door. The menu consists of solid Italian cuisine, including the usual favourites from pasta to pizza. The atmosphere is fun and relaxed: Kitchen employees sometimes sing while working, especially after football matches, and there is a romantic little beer garden in front of the house that might inspire you to sing “That’s Amore!” It’s definitely an alternative to the traditional local outdoor places. Indeed, their birretta must be the smallest quantity of Munich’s favorite drink available anywhere in the city.
Waisenhausstrasse 63, Phone: (089) 157 10 58
This is old Schwabing. Boheme á la Bavaroise. Frank Wedekind used to come here and Bertolt Brecht and maybe Thomas Mann—or was it his brother Heinrich? Today it is students, film people, eccentrics and normalos (normal people)—a very nice mixture. And by the way it’s the only place where guests would invite a poor fellow to a pint of beer and a bowl of soup. I’ve seen it. Food is hearty and inexpensive. Tends to be pretty crowded in the evenings, so booking is recommended.
Fendstr. 5, Phone: (089) 39 81 55