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November 2000

Quarter Notes

This month we focus on Neuhausen

Broeding
Schulstrasse 9
Tel. (089) 16 42 38
Hours: Tue.-Sat. 19:00-1:00,
kitchen serves until 22:00
Gottfried Wallisch and Manuel Reheis have been dealing exclusively in Austrian wine for more than a decade. A few years ago, they decided to open a restaurant at which diners could try their wines with food. The concept is simple: the restaurant serves only one five-course prix-fixe menu (DM 78) daily. Every first Wednesday of the month, the menu focuses on fish (DM 85 to 89). Each course can be substituted for another should there be something someone cannot eat. On the night we visited Broeding, our culinary adventure began with sweetbread with rosemary and parsley in port wine, a wonderfully delicate combination. Next came another starter, partridge pâté with pistachios and salad with a tangy cranberry dressing. Those who didn’t fancy fish soup with rouille and topped with basil and olive bread croutons, could opt for a decidedly less exciting parsley soup. Pepper seems to be the chef’s favorite spice: it was well represented in both the fish soup and the risotto with red cabbage that followed. The tricky-to-prepare classic Italian rice dish was expertly cooked, and a delectable lead in to the presentation of the impressive main course — roast venison served with beans and a potato and topinambur gratin. Topinambur is a sweet and tasty root vegetable, whose flavor combined harmoniously with the creamy gratin. The dessert, baked calvados parfait, was a filo pastry parcel stuffed with plum jam and oranges and generously doused in the Breton apple brandy. Naturally, each course is complemented by a glass of Austrian wine suited to its flavors. Broeding is currently one of Munich’s most talked about restaurants, and now we know why.
FOOD 9, SERVICE 9, ATMOSPHERE 7

Loony
Nymphenburger Strasse 70
Tel. (089) 18 99 96 63
Hours: daily 9:00-1:00,
kitchen serves until 23:00
Loony is a new bar cum restaurant on the busy Nymphenburger Strasse, adjacent to CSU party headquarters. Those who knew it as Fiddler’s Green will recall its generous terrace for outdoor dining — weather permitting — and tacky statues of smiling jazz musicians. The new owners have conjured a tastefully reserved interior with blond-wood tables and a bar that is sectioned off from the dining area by an intricately carved wood panel. The pricey menu draws a clientele still in suits, arriving for a drink or a bite after a long day. Loony’s cuisine features food from all around the world. You will find everything from sushi to pasta, from curry to Cajun chicken on the ever-changing menu. Apart from the soups, the least expensive starter on the menu is organic greens, (DM 7.50), a generous portion of mixed salad lacking inspired detail or dressing. Other starters include crispy fried salmon cubes served on a thick bed of lettuce (DM 18.50). The fish, fried in its skin, is wonderfully crunchy. The vegato al burro, fried calf’s liver, (DM 13.50) absorbs much of the delicious taste of its sauce, a dark concoction with mushrooms and fennel. The mixed impressions gained from the starters were underscored by the main and dessert courses. The crispy fried duck with rice (DM 23.80) is a delight. Unfortunately, the accompanying vegetables drown in brown gravy tasting too strongly of soy sauce. The tantalizing Thai lamb curry (DM 23.50), with its aromatic sauce of coconut and lemon grass, guarantees you’ll have to share. Fried legs of rabbit (DM 23.80), are stuffed with smoked minced poultry and carry a hint of sausage flavor. The meat, topped with a rich sauce, accompanied by a generous helping of cherry tomatoes topped with basil and fried potato halves, is altogether delicious. Crème brulée with strawberries (DM 9.50) is disappointing. The Loony version of this French custard dish is simply not sweet enough and rendered very heavy by an overly generous dollop of crème fraiche. It might have passed muster had it been served warm rather than straight from the refrigerator. It would appear that Loony’s slowly forming reputation — some love it, some hate it — is as inconsistent as its fare.
FOOD 6, SERVICE 7, ATMOSPHERE 8