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May 2007

Veggie Good Restaurants

As Munich grows greener this month, it might be just the time to trade in your Döner for the leafy fare of the city’s best vegetarian and vegan restaurants.

Tucked on a side street behind Marienplatz, Prinz Myshkin has been bringing together the world’s best vegetarian and vegan dishes for more than 20 years. Chefs try to impart the spirit of their namesake—the loving protagonist of Dostoevsky’s The Idiot—to the delicious food. The hearty soups could make a meal at just € 5.10 each: Indian Tomato Lentil, Miso, or Curry Carrot and Orange, for example. Main dishes are also far from “rabbit food,” and just as moderately priced. The Curry Diablo is a fiery Indian Vindaloo with tofu chunks, lentil bread, and cucumber yogurt raika (€ 15.40). Specialty pizzas such as the Myshkin—loaded with fresh mushrooms, spinach, roquefort, and gorgonzola—cost between € 8.20 and 10.20. Even though vegetarians can indulge in most classic desserts, Prinz Myshkin doesn’t skimp on the creativity with sweets. Options include a heavenly Mango Tiramisu (light mascarpone cream and meringue sandwich in cookies with mango puree and lime juice, € 6.50). All desserts are prepared without gelatin or artificial flavoring. The clean high-ceilinged eating area is flooded with natural light, and serves as an appropriately subdued backdrop to the mixture of international influences at each table. (Hackenstr. 2, Tel. 26 55 96. Open daily, 11 am–12:30 am. To read the menu in English, visit www.prinzmyshkin.com.)

Another green oasis in the Wurst-laden city center is Buxs, located on the edges of the Viktualienmarkt. This vegetarian self-serve buffet is outfitted with warm wood chairs and plenty of plant life, mirroring the natural-made dishes on offer. Buxs offers more than 40 different salads and dressing combinations daily, as well as several soups like Pumpkin Coriander, and a hot food station serving up such recipes as Carrot-Leek Frittata. Diners weigh their plates at checkout to obtain the price of a meal. There are more than 10 fresh-pressed juices and 20 special coffees and teas to wash it all down. The entire restaurant is non-smoking. (Frauenstr. 9, Tel. 892 91 95 50. Open Mon.–Fri., 11 am–6:45 pm; Sat., 11 am–3 pm.)

Down Burgstrasse next to the Alter Hof is a building that has served as a royal falcon house and bath hall at different times during its seven centuries of history. In its most recent incarnation, it is home to Zerwirk—Germany’s first vegan deli and restaurant. Though the name comes from the German word zerwirken (to skin and carve game), and the location was once a game store, no more animal products are found within its walls. Even the pet food and cosmetics in the basement market are plant-based, and the wines and cleaning materials are totally organic. Since June 2005, the second floor has hosted a vegan restaurant serving fruits, vegetables, grains, nuts, seeds, tofu, seitan, tempeh, and other animal-free products. A taste of the hearty Penne with soy bolognese (€ 7.90) would make even the most skeptical carnivore a happy vegan, if just for one meal. The prix-fixe menus are even more luxe: sherry chestnut soup, followed by beluga lentil and pumpkin caviar with balsamic reduction, saffron sorbet with avocado-lime crème, and seitan slices and rice in an orange sauce, for example (€ 38, dessert selection included). The décor here is decidedly relaxed, but a pop art touch makes even the plastic deck chairs seem somewhat chic. (Ledererstr. 3, Tel. 18 92 28 13. Supermarket and deli open Mon.–Sat., 10 am–8 pm. Restaurant open Mon.–Sun., 11 am–1 am. See www.zerwirk.de for a listing of events in the first-floor lounge, as well as the weekly menu, in German.)

Delicious vegetarian eating is hardly restricted, however, to the tourist-clogged streets of the city center: Cafe Ignaz has been serving up vegetarian and vegan food with stellar Schwabing people-watching for 22 years. Students at the nearby LMU are especially fond of the laid-back atmosphere and light fare here. The pizzas are smothered with fresh toppings like broccoli or leeks (€ 6.90), and the vegetable couscous (€ 7.90) is a perfect midday meal. Heavier fare such as seaweed with glass noodles, dates, and vegetables (€ 8.60) is also available. Each main dish comes with a free piece of homemade cake, which costs € 2.50 otherwise. (Georgenstr. 67, Tel. 271 60 93. Open Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday from 8 am to 10 pm. Tuesday, open from 11 am to 10 pm. Weekends and holidays, open 9 am to 10 pm. On Sundays, counter sales begin at 8 am. A listing of daily specials (in German) is available at www.ignaz-cafe.de.)

For a grown-ups’ green night out, there’s no better choice than Vegelangelo, where children under 12 are not allowed, and works by local artists deck the richly painted walls. This small ovo-lacto vegetarian restaurant emphasizes such velvety Italian dishes as Pasta with gorgonzola cream sauce, fresh walnuts, and grapes (€ 9.80). Vegan recipes include a mushroom risotto with pine nuts and fresh truffles (€ 18.80). The restaurant is completely non-smoking. (Türkenstr. 76, Tel. 28 80 68 36. Reservations recommended. Weekly specials (some in English) are available at www.vegelangelo.de.)


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